Flowery feast story in the July 2010 Issue of Explore TACA

Flowery feast

By Manuel Cadenas Mujica

An exotic potpourri from the banquet tables of old comes to the most sophisticated restaurants and dining establishments in the world.

More than once you might have sung flowery praises about a chef whose culinary skills touched the deepest fibers of your gourmet soul. But what if your chef were to return the favor by throwing some blooms on your plate? This question might come as a major surprise for some and as the latest gastronomic trend for others, but the lead role of flowers in various dishes is older than you would think.

In ancient China, flowers were always the daily bread, especially those of magnolia, jasmine and lotus. Perhaps as an echo of this preference, we find a land of people who ate only the latter in Homer's Odyssey—although the fascination with exotic floral flavors had been in the epicurean hearts of the Hellenes since the conquests of that famous foodie, Alexander the Great.

Following the Greek style, the Romans were equally as fond of flowers, as can be seen in the recipes of Apicius. Rose petals in a famous pie, marjoram flowers in tapas and sauces made of safflowers bear witness to a well-developed palate for such delicate exquisiteness.

Although the Middle Ages are considered to be an insipid time for refined palates, Charlemagne knew to surrender his taste buds to mallow flowers, which he preferred as salads, and some of the kings after him enjoyed nards.

The Spanish Renaissance brought to light the ancient recipes of Andalusian cuisine—which was profoundly influenced by the Arab culinary tradition for 700 years—when the Spanish kings introduced them into their courts at the hands of their chefs during the 16th and 17th centuries. Meanwhile, in the Far East, Japan picked up the Middle Eastern custom of glorifying chrysanthemums, roses and orange blossoms in their cuisine, especially during New Year celebrations, or Shogatsu. Since 1873, these have coincided with the New Year in the Western calendar.

Return to the Garden
It is really Leonardo da Vinci who definitely reintroduced edible flowers into Western cuisine. A genius and a gourmet ahead of his time, he revolutionized cooking by inventing the first mechanical devices for it, such as the spaghetti slicer. He also founded a restaurant in Florence with his inseparable friend Sandro Botticelli: "The Insignia of the Three Frogs of Sandro and Leonardo." The restaurant's menu, known to future readers because of its compilation of cooking notes in a very entertaining book, was positively extravagant for the time. It declared that the only truly edible flower was that of zucchini.

Influenced by the Italian Renaissance, the Belle Epoque toward the end of the 19th century brought the revolutionary cuisine of Prosper Montagne—a chef from the interwar period who, among other dishes, created a version of the Francillon salad in which flowers are obviously prominent. In the '80s, it was rebel Jacques Maximin's turn. He wrote Jacques Maximin cuisine les légumes, a book that highlights hundreds of culinary creations, both original and classic, with exotic recipes in which he brings back into vogue the zucchini flower.

More than Scents
One would think that flowers would only take a decorative role in dishes—that they would be a feast for the eyes or maybe a deceptive invitation. But a closer look at current cookbooks refutes that notion. It's true that the traditional presentation of flowers timidly placed them in infusions and as decoration. But now flowers do not let themselves be trampled in that manner, intervening vividly as part of the core of many dishes, and as the aromatization of sauces, desserts and ice creams.

For example, the climbing nasturtium, or Indian cress—a flower discovered in Peru by the Spanish and well-received in the Iberian peninsula—offers an extraordinary spicy kick to salads enjoyed by those who love exotic tastes. Mint, thyme, hibiscus or jasmine are better suited as innovative garnishes for fish, just as lavender is perfect for rabbit, rice and chicken dishes, and violets can be used as filling for various tortillas.

But Mexican food is by far the one that features flowers with the most enthusiasm, using them in a great variety of snacks, tacos, soups, salads, beverages and desserts. There are three favorites: the flowers of the pumpkin, agave and flame coral. The first is used in quesadillas, -sautéed in butter, garlic and epazote for 15 minutes. The second one, loaded with an unmistakable chicken-like taste, is perfect for vegetable soups, salads, omelets or creams of mushroom or asparagus. The latter flower, which boasts a taste similar to that of red meat, is a great substitute for those who have diets of any kind.

Mexican kitchens are also using roselle, with which you can prepare delicious shrimp with a roselle vinaigrette.

But the Spanish are not far behind, with their culinary revolution on their shoulders, and they have used rosa gallica in the production of aromatic honeys. Overall, they have taken roses by storm, because the scent and taste of these regal flowers give them an incomparable gastronomic throne—whether they are served in the typical fashion of just sugar-glazed petals, or as components in couscous and certain traditional lamb stews from Algeria and Tunisia.

In these times when the nutritional value of food is paramount, flowers are also winning, and they are several petals ahead of the pack: They are an extraordinary source of proteins and vitamins A, B, C and E, as well as calcium, iron and sodium. Pumpkin flowers alone contain 420 milligrams of calcium, fiber, and vitamins A and C. They are followed by field mustards, containing up to 310 milligrams of calcium and vitamins A and C, and cassia flowers, which have 240 milligrams of calcium, vitamin A and 20 percent iron.

Bouquets to eat
You don't go to a park or step into the garden and rip out a bunch of flowers to toss into the cooking pot. You also don't ransack vases. Edible flowers are scarce, although there's a growing trend for their cultivation and consumption. If you have seen them and want to buy them at a supermarket or a gourmet shop to live the experience, you should be very clear on a number of criteria for selecting your flowery banquet.

As with mushrooms and toadstools, some are edible and some are poisonous. Check with the salesperson. That's why you shouldn't buy them in flower shops, since the flowers in those stores have been treated with chemicals, pesticides and other toxic substances.

Flowers must be picked early in the day and must be dry to prevent spoiling. Then, the stamens, pistils and the white base of the petals, which carry a slightly bitter taste, should be removed.

To keep until it's time to use them: Sauté the petals without a drop of oil until golden; powder with sugar until they are glazed; wash them; let them drain; and then dry them delicately, holding the flowers by the stem. Most flowers keep well in the refrigerator for a week.

When you are ready to use them, remember that, as opposed to when they are in gardens and vases-where their beauty is key-flowers should not overpower the other flavors in a dish.

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