Silvery Toronto story in the July 2010 Issue of Explore TACA

Silvery Toronto

By Yined Ramírez-Hendrix

A visit to the marvelous Toronto—home to hundreds of cultures—is always special, but during Christmas, it's simply magical.

Toronto is one of those cities where you don't just celebrate Christmas—you live it and breathe it. As the capital of the Canadian province of Ontario, Toronto is naturally inclined to partying and festivals. However, nothing compares to the packed events agenda during this season, when the myriad little Christmas lights glint over the snow that blankets this fascinating burg in wintertime. There are loads of special events, and the spread of seasonal decorations is monumental. A visit to this marvelous city—home to hundreds of cultures—is always special, but Christmas is simply magical.

Most of the action is in downtown, and of the most anticipated events for residents and visitors alike is the Cavalcade of Lights Festival. This marks the official start of the holiday season, with the lighting of Nathan Phillips Square and 19 of the most important neighborhoods, such as Bloor-Yorkville, Chinatown and Downtown Yonge, among others. This year, the lighting will be Nov. 29 and will continue until January. Nathan Phillips Square is the plaza in front of City Hall (Queen & Bay Streets) that transforms into a vast skating rink during this time, and where the official city Christmas tree is raised. At night it's a veritable luxury to enjoy the sight of the lit metropolis from the rink.

Christmas Traditions
The majesty of the CN Tower (301 Front St.) is magnified by the illumination of the Cavalcade, which shines every night with different colors that represent the local communities. The WinterLights Gardens at the foot of the tower deserve a visit. Built in 1976 as a communication tower, the CN Tower boasts a height of 1,814 feet. This architectural wonder is the most iconic structure in the city, and among the tallest buildings in the world. The structure includes observation decks and several restaurants, but the must-visit is the restaurant 360. At an elevation of 1,148 feet, the restaurant has a rotating floor that offers a complete view of Toronto covered in snow (the first snowfall usually takes place toward the end of November, so a white Christmas is practically guaranteed). The menu and wine list are spectacular, and although it is not cheap, this is a one-of-a-kind experience.

The Christmas ornaments are everywhere, in what appears to be a great collective effort by the fifth-largest city in North America. One of the most awaited spreads is at The Bay (44 Bloor St.), a department store that has a theme every year and displays noteworthy recreations of historic Canadian events and places in its windows. Another place for decorations galore is Eaton Centre (220 Yonge St.). The avant-garde architectural design of this three-story shopping center makes it unique, and during Christmas, the more than 300 stores in it overflow with decorations.

The cold weather can be very severe during this time, which is why PATH—a system of subterranean pedestrian walkways that connect the most important buildings in downtown—is the best way to move about to the main points of interest and more than 50 buildings and hotels (toronto.ca/path). PATH has shops, restaurants and services. The underground train system is also very safe, reliable and takes you to several attractions.

Another Time
Casa Loma (1 Austin Terrace) takes you to another era. This medieval-style building dating back to 1911 took three years and $3.5 million to build, and has secret passageways and innovations that were rarely seen at the beginning of the 20th century. The castle sits on top of a hill and is interesting, but the man who brought it to life, Sir Henry Pellat, is even more so. A financier, military man and philanthropist—and responsible for bringing electricity to the streets of Toronto, among other things—he lived in the building for about 10 years and ended up living with his chauffeur after losing his fortune. Casa Loma stages a Christmas pageant in its library toward the end of November. Visit casaloma.org for schedules.

In late November, the Distillery District (55 Mill St.) celebrates a Canadian Christmas crafts fair. This area shows off the largest example of Victorian industrial architecture in the world, and the best-preserved of its kind in North America. What is now a pedestrian village was built in 1832 as a windmill and remained in operation, through several reincarnations, until 1990. It was then turned into the major center of Canadian filmmaking, and the second most important outside of Hollywood. In 2001, it became a cultural center, with galleries, studios, shops and cafés. Café Balzac offers an exceptional cappuccino, super comfortable sofas and a European vibe, inviting conversation and the enjoyment of this establishment that serves coffee grown within strict production standards. There are several restaurants in this area, and the cobblestone streets and brick buildings take on a joyous appearance with the Christmas lights that shine everywhere.

In the Lap of Luxury Till Your Heart's Content
In Toronto, luxury accommodations abound. The Fairmont Royal York (100 Front St.), formerly the Royal York, is traditionally the go-to hotel. This historic hostelry opened its doors in 1929 and is the preferred accommodation for Queen Elizabeth II of England and members of the royal family when they visit the city. This opulent building is located just in front of Union Station, and during this season it is decked out with exquisite decorations.

Avenue Road is one of the favorite streets for anyone who loves luxury shopping, because this is where many designers have their stores, such as Vera Wang, Tiffany and Prada, among others. At Avenue Road and Queen Street is the timeless Hyatt Park. A must-visit, whether you stay there or not, is its Roof Lounge, the iconic bar on the 18th floor. Listed among the best bars in the world because of its elegant ambience, this lounge dating back to 1947 is a favorite for celebrities who like to savor a good martini as much as an impressive view of the city. Others seeking sophistication head to the Hazelton Hotel (118 Yorkville Ave.), which has a modern and dramatic design, as well as the "in" restaurant at the moment, One.

Toronto's multicultural aspect makes for a widely varied offer of gastronomic fare. The ethnic neighborhoods, of which four Chinatowns are among the best, have modest diners as well as fine restaurants. It's just a matter of choosing one and tempting the palate with new and exciting flavors.

There is much to do in Toronto, but nothing compares to the feeling of revisiting your childhood when you see the thousands of Christmas decorations and shimmering lights. A city like this reawakens your need to leave out some cookies and milk for Santa Claus.

More of Toronto

Most of the main attractions are closed on Christmas Day, but many city squares offer events or concerts, depending on local schedules.

Attractions could be pricey, so it's better to get a City Pass for $65. It gives you access to the CN Tower, the Royal Ontario Museum, the Toronto Zoo, the Hockey Hall of Fame, Casa Loma and the Ontario Science Center.

Toronto is home to more than 25 museums, but the stand-out is the Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queen St.), which has amazing traveling and permanent exhibits. Its large size merits a day of visit.

St. Lawrence Market (Front St. and Jarvis St., in what's called Old Town Toronto), is a market established in 1803 and consists of two buildings. There are desserts and both traditional and ethnic foods. It's also part of the Cavalcade Festival.

Artistic events like The Nutcracker ballet and musicals like A Christmas Carol abound during this time of year, with various performances by local companies.

The CN Tower is also one of the most popular places for the countdown to the new year.

Side Trip
Christmas action isn't limited to the city. About an hour-and-a-half from Toronto is Niagara Falls, a destination for those who want to blend the holidays with romance. The Winter Festival of Lights has been celebrated there for more than 25 years, and it's only fair to say that the natural wonder of the falls is even more spectacular with more than 3 million lights and intricate designs. In December, each Friday at 9 p.m. you can enjoy a majestic fireworks display.
niagarafallstourism.com

A visit to the falls can be a day trip, but if you'd like to spend the night, one of the most charming towns in Canada is just a few miles north. Niagara-on-the-Lake is a beautiful community founded in 1781 near Lake Ontario that looks as if it came straight out of a fairy tale, with cobblestone streets, rows of small shops and bed-and-breakfasts. Here on a clear day you can even see the Toronto skyline in the horizon. In the last week of November, this town celebrates the decorating of the Christmas tree with the Winterglow Festival. This takes place in the heart of the Heritage District, and it offers decoration-making workshops and wine tastings (there are many wineries and vineyards on the way to Niagara-on-the-Lake). The Santa Claus Parade, which this year is on Dec. 13, is one of the most anticipated events, considered the best of its kind in Ontario.
niagaraonthelake.com

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