Tasty Tapas story in the July 2010 Issue of Explore TACA

Tasty Tapas

By Millie Acebal Rousseu
Photos By J. Kevin Foltz

For some diners, tapas, which can be served warm or cold, are merely an appetizer associated with Spanish cuisine. It may be a dish featuring assorted hams and cheeses, or some other type of small plate to accompany a glass of wine or beer. Some diners may combine various tapas servings to make an entrée. A hit in Spain, they're recognized for initiating good conversation; acting as a mini-meal, especially while drinking; and providing foodies with a variety of small dishes—rather than just one big one—when dining out.

Tapas are now permeating other cultures, especially in the United States. The reason? Eating habits, for one. "People are eating less and want to try different dishes," says Alfredo Patiño, chef-owner of Bin No. 18 restaurant in Downtown Miami. "There's a trend for lesser portion sizes, and less expensive, so people can enjoy different things." In addition to price points, he says, the food is more shareable and a great conversation starter.

It's a sentiment shared by Miguel Valbuena, who's from Bilbao, Spain, and opened Copas y Tapas in Coral Gables three years ago. "People like different varieties of food … four to five tapas, rather than one entrée," he explains. "There's more flavor, and it's a lot healthier," he explains, saying how the Mediterranean influence, which includes olive oils, cheeses, grains, meats and breads, plays a part. Of course, it's healthy as long as you don't overdo it. Like anything else, moderation is key.

In general, a tapa can be just about anything—a small hamburger, a plate of fries or Serrano ham served with Manchego cheese. In the States, we may call them appetizers, bar food or, as Chef Patiño does in his kitchen, "small plates." In Spain, tapas dishes will vary by region. I turned to The Ritz-Carlton, Key Biscayne's Executive Sous Chef Jordi Valles, a Barcelona native, to give me the dish on what sizzles where. He explains the basic tapa, considered a rustic food, may incorporate pork and cider. But again, the region will dictate.

He explains: In Andalusia—said to be the birthplace of tapas—marinated fresh vegetables and olives are featured, while in the Basque Country or in Catalonia, seafood is the star ingredient. In Central Spain, you see a lot of the cold and cured meats, such as Serrano ham and chorizo. In Galicia, empanadas made from seasonal items found in local markets are commonplace.

"It's very rustic and not very expensive," he explains. "Similar to a French bistro, there's a blackboard with the food of the day." Forget a traditional menu. "They use what they find in the market, fresh, and cook it the same day."

In order to appreciate tapas, a little history lesson may help. Food connoisseurs will tell you tapas have been around for centuries. Some say about 700 years. As for their origin, some trace it back to Andalusian taverns, where bar goers, in between drinks, would cover their sherry glasses with bread slices to deter flies. Hence the name, tapa, which comes from tapar, meaning "to cover" in Spanish. As the story goes, food items started appearing on top of the bread, and the tapa was born.

Yet another tale attributes the birth of tapas to a Spanish king. This story says the king would request sausage with his wine, which he used to cover his glass to prevent sand from getting into it. Another variation tells the tale of a king who liked to drink, a lot. He discovered that if he paired his alcohol with olives or cheese, it would lower the side effects and increase his tolerance. Legend says the king mandated anyone who drank in a tavern to pair the drink with food.

However tapas originated, they've sure made an impact on the culinary scene. Just ask Alisha Forbes, a lay tapas expert of sorts. After studying in Spain, she says she fell in love with the food, culture—and a man. She married him and now calls Madrid home. While completing her undergraduate studies, she researched and wrote her thesis on Spanish gastronomy, particularly tapas. In addition to the food, she uncovered tapas' social contributions. She notes how the younger crowds will start off the night by going to a bar and enjoying tapas with wine or sangria before heading to a club to dance. "It's the prelude to going out," she says. "It's all about the sobremesa—conversation provoked by food at the table."

Then there's the question of traditional versus modern. Chef Valles enjoys a mix of modern and traditional; but when teaching chefs how to make them, he insists on not deconstructing something that's a classic. His creations include seafood croquetas and gazpacho; cold meats paired with cheeses from Spain; conceptual raviolis that combine different flavors with the presentation of regional tapas; and Spanish omelets.

Valbuena prefers to stay traditional, offering dishes that everybody knows and are common throughout Spain. They include Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, boquerones (anchovies), fried garbanzos, mussels in vinaigrette and a series of sandwiches using meats such as chorizo.

Executive Chef Alberto Cabrera of Karu&Y in Miami has another take on tapas. "We do Spanish tapas more modern-style." One example is his foie gras lollipop—featuring a mousse with layers of guava and mamey jelly, and thin cumin candies, along with a Pedro Ximenez reduction. At Bin No. 18, Chef Patiño offers a fig brûlée, incorporating the Spanish tradition of using sangria to cook it. He stuffs it with pine nuts and Spanish cheeses. "It's simple, but very flavorful," which at the end of the day is what attracts most people to tapas. "People like it because it's a party food—simple, easy and light," adds Chef Cabrera.

Tapas are commonplace in Spain. "Tapas are not popular; they're part of the culture," says Forbes. "It's like us drinking coffee in the morning. It's always there." They are, however, becoming trendy on the international scale. In Miami alone, several tapas bars have sprouted. And Chef Valles points to the surge of Japanese and Mexican tapas. Chef Cabrera agrees, citing an Asian influence. Egg rolls or dumplings anyone? "People are using it as a general term for small bites," he says.

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