Delightful DF story in the September 2010 Issue of Explore TACA

Delightful DF

By Diego E. Rivera
Photos by J. Kevin Foltz

As though trying to spare me from a terrible fate, my dear friends from my natal province continuously ask why do I insist on living in Mexico City, a place I've called home for several years now. They back their argument with the same old complaints: interminable traffic jams, suffocating crowds, smog, noise pollution… I still live here because Mexico City is so much more than that, and because only those who have known its unending sources of magic understand that living here is delightful.

Today, Mexico City is still the awe-inspiring urban landscape described over half a century ago in Carlos Fuentes' novel La región más transparente (Where the air is clear). It's a metropolis that's always nurtured by its everlasting history, yet day after day reaffirms its place in the modern world.

Whenever I get a chance, just like now, I break from the routine and search for those sources of magic, especially the ones I've yet to visit. If my friends were to share this experience, they'd be sure to stop asking the same question and, like me, would wind up love-struck by "where the air is clear."

The Tour
Must-see places in my tour are the majestic Centro Histórico (city center), the National Palace and its otherworldly murals, the Cathedral and the imposing Bellas Artes building. Afterwards, I head down to Polanco, a stylish neighborhood that has attracted a number of fashionable boutiques: Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Lotus, Tiffany's, Ferrari. The area is also home to some of Mexico City's most renowned art galleries and hotels, mostly located along Presidente Masaryk Avenue.

On my way I stumble upon L'Ostería del Becco, in 103 Goldsmith St. Owner Rolly Pavia's taste is evident both inside and out, portrayed by a minimalist style and austere elegance. First-time visitors zoom in on Becco's two wine cellars, containing between 800 and 1,000 labels of Italian wine kept at 64 F. Even though it has one of Latin America's largest wine cellars, the owners assure us that its culinary offerings are what entice visitors. They cook with 100 percent Italian products, although avant-garde fusion recipes using distinctive Mexican flavors have found their way into the menu.

The menu is extensive, so if you're undecided, ask Flavio, the manager, for suggestions. I chose fiori di zucchine ripieni in pastelle, featuring the unmistakable flavor of what's known in Mexico as flor de calabaza (squash blossoms). I also ordered timballo di risotto alle quaglie and finished off with cervo alla griglia con polenta e torta di verdure. Start off with the deer and then work your way through the vegetables. A reasonable budget in Becco stands at about $80 per person, though it may increase depending on the wine you choose. (T: 5282-1059)

Mexican chef Patricia Quintana's Izote restaurant is also a highlight of Polanco. The place is almost barren (a room with no more than 20 tables), but whatever you order will make you feel as though you've made a delicious discovery. Izote, located in 513 Masaryk Ave., is perhaps the place that best fuses Mexico's vast culinary heritage, thanks to chef Quintana's unrelenting creativity. Some of the chef's most lauded creations include shrimp with hibiscus mole, duck with black mole, fish with pulque and steamed lamb.

I recommend pairing your meal with tlaxcalate, a refreshing beverage from southeastern Mexico that's served with whiskey in Izote, or one of their exquisite mescales. British pop group Coldplay stopped by Izote during their most recent visit to Mexico, thus increasing the list of celebrities that have enjoyed Quintana's work. The average bill per person is $45. (T: 5280-1671)

The Whiskey, Hotel W's lobby bar located on 252 Campos Elíseos, is the perfect hangout spot for sophisticated youth who want to get away from the bump and grind in a quiet and elegant lounge-style setting. The establishment mimics the hotel's style and décor, outlined by a modest touch and the use of brightly colored lighting, adding a sense of tranquility.

Order one of their martinis, the house specialty (I suggest the apple or chocolate one), and sit by the small koi pond in the middle of the bar. Indulge in some duck carnitas or salmon tataki as appetizers while chatting with your friends to the beat of house music. A martini here ranges from $11 to $15. (T: 9138-1842)

Off to the Cantinas
After visiting Polanco, it's time for something more folkloric. In Colonia Roma, another one of Mexico City's traditional neighborhoods, I become reacquainted with Covadonga, one of the places that has benefited the most from Mexico City's residents' renewed interest in cantinas (pubs). Covadonga, located on 121 Puebla St., is the right place to enjoy a bohemian conversation: the only music you'll hear is the sound of human voices.

This pub opened in 1952, when it was known as Centro Asturiano. A former hub for domino-loving adults, Covadonga underwent a transformation that turned it into the meeting place of choice for youngsters seeking to hang around intellectuals. This art deco building is the setting of many a rookie author's book presentation as well as musical and pictorial cultural expressions from the so-called counterculture tribes.

Covadonga serves up eight different types of mescal, all of them ideal to wash down pulpo a la gallega (Galician style octopus, $12), tortilla española (Spanish omelet, $6), paella ($14) or escargots à la Bordelaise. If you wish to learn more about Covadonga's history all you need to do is strike up a conversation with Manuel Fuentes, who's worked as a waiter here for 24 years. (T: 5533-2701)

Few things are as Mexican as mescal, a distilled agave beverage often overshadowed by its more famous cousin, tequila. La Botica is the place that probably boasts the wider variety of this elixir, which some say has been consumed in present-day Mexico since 1500 B.C.

La Botica, boasting five locales in the city (I recommend the one on 120 Alfonso Reyes, since it's very roomy), offers more than 30 varieties of mescal (at $6 each) and agave crèmes flavored with coconut, coffee, caramel, mango and piña colada ($3), as well as agave liqueurs infused with almond, passion fruit, cinnamon and mint ($4). La Botica is the result of a movement that seeks to revalidate mescal and is gaining momentum among the city's young adult population. Some mescales have up to 52 percent alcohol content, so exercise restraint and when you go to La Condesa neighborhood, don't drink and drive. (T: 5212-1167)

Exotic, Traditional and Avant-Garde
If La Botica fueled your interest in further exploring La Condesa and you're in the mood for shopping, make sure to drop by Soho, located on 100-B Atlixco St. This store is not for conservative tastes; it's popular among lovers of extravagant, eye-catching and in vogue clothing. The store's wares are anything but ordinary: washed out clothing, retro-style exotic textures and designs, and tight jeans. There are six Soho stores in Mexico City, but the one in La Condesa is the most famous. (T: 5553-1730)

If you want to dine well in one of the city's most beautiful places, then you must visit the restaurant in San Ángel Inn, located on 50 Diego Rivera St. in southern Mexico City. Built during the 17th century as Hacienda Goicoechea, the establishment once housed a Carmelite monastery and is known today as a meeting point for the country's political and business elite.

Before settling at your table, indulge by strolling through the former hacienda's gardens and halls. Then, choose a table in the central open-air patio, adorned by a multicolor garden and a centuries-old fountain. Don't miss the coconut and tamarind shrimp ($30), the delicious huitlacoche fettuccine ($10), veal brains in black butter ($17) or the roast duck in blackberry sauce. The virtually endless wine and cocktail list contains anything your heart desires, and the live piano or harp and jarocho guitars will make your meal all the more enjoyable. (T: 5616-2222).

A proper ending to this tour is a visit to -Kurimanzutto, one of Mexico's most important art galleries and a springboard for international artists. Ranked number 20 in Flash Art magazine's list of the world's best art galleries, Kurimanzutto was founded 10 years ago by gallery owners José Kuri and Mónica Manzutto.

In late 2009 Kurimanzutto moved to its new establishment, a former lumberyard on 94 Rafael Rebollar St. in colonia Chapultepec. The place was remodeled by architect Alberto Kalach and it's not only a space for exhibits but also meeting ground for the artists featured in the gallery, such as Carlos Amorales, Abraham Cruzvillegas, Jimmie Durham, Dr. Lakra, Gabriel Orozco, Sofía Táboas, Rorkrit Tiravanija and Apichatpong Weerasethakul. Kurimanzutto is open Wednesdays and Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. To find out more about their exhibits and collection, visit kurimanzutto.com. (T: 5273-3137)

TACA flies directly to Mexico City from San Salvador, Lima, San José and Guatemala City.

For more information on how to book your next trip on TACA, please visit www.taca.com or locate a TACA Call Center, here.

exploretaca.com - @2004-2010 HCP/Aboard Publishing
Book your trip online now at www.taca.com or click here to locate an office around the world.