An Ode to Portuguese Cuisine
Photos by J. Kevin Foltz
Dishes Courtesy of Marinheiro Restaurant, Miami
(marinheirorestaurant.com)
Portuguese cuisine is based on ingredients that are delicious, diverse and above all, fresh—in addition to incorporating culinary influences from around the world.
Perhaps the delicious and varied Portuguese cuisine isn't as famous as that of France or as popular and widespread as Chinese or Italian food, but it has a solid base: freshness. If we add smarts and the resourcefulness to combine local, regional, Atlantic and Mediterranean ingredients with exquisite skill, the result is a grouping of flavors, colors and textures that pleases the most demanding palate.
We can say that Portuguese seamen were responsible for such a succulent melting pot. During the so-called Age of Discovery or Age of Exploration, roughly from the mid-15th to the mid-16th century, European ships crisscrossed the world's oceans, exploring territories and establishing trading routes. The list of the most famous European explorers includes several of Portuguese origin, like Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, who discovered nations and charted territories during their tireless journeys—and almost without trying, contributed to the enrichment of the European culinary universe. Let's not lose sight of the fact that the Age of Exploration had a specific goal focused on flavor: finding a maritime route to Asia to bring spices from the East to Western Europe. Up until then, caravans had to transport those spices by land in cumbersome trips that took a long time.
It was during that age when Old World palates began savoring the exotic flavors that arrived from beyond the sea. Portuguese dishes reflect those influences and are based on spices brought back by exploring seafarers—like pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg.
However, the ocean has always played a role as source and sustenance for Portuguese cuisine, which takes advantage of the wealth and availability of the ocean's bounty.
Loyal Friend from the Ocean
Portuguese cuisine is synonymous with seafood. Whether as appetizers or entrées, fish and shellfish will always have a place at the table. Octopus salad, for example, is one of the most typical appetizers, prepared with a simple recipe that emphasizes the freshness of the octopod.
Sardines are a favorite type of fish, eaten mainly during summer months, simply fried and seasoned with salt, garlic and lemon. A modest dish, it's a traditional mainstay, not just because of its availability but also for its high nutritional value.
However, bacalhau (codfish) is king where it comes to Portuguese cuisine. Ever-present at the table year-round, bacalhau is a standard of this type of cuisine. It's prepared in many ways, like poached, fried, grilled, ground or used as stuffing… what remains the same is that most recipes call for salted and dried fish. The traditional way of curing the fish is cutting it into two halves that are placed on rocks under the sun to dry, usually during April and May. Bacalhau is so popular that an average Portuguese consumes about 22 pounds per year, and it's said that in Portugal there are more than a thousand recipes to prepare it. It's so ubiquitous and useful, that it's even called a "loyal friend."
Shellfish, on the other hand, are also essential ingredients in Portuguese cuisine. An interesting fact, however, is that they're usually eaten during months without an "r," so they're most desirable during the summer. Coastal menus feature mussels, clams, shrimp, lobsters and many other shellfish prepared simply so their natural flavor shines. Many typical soups are also made from fish, especially in cities along the coast.
Let's Talk Soup
An endless variety of soups are a must at Portuguese family tables, mainly before the entrée, including those made from vegetables, tomatoes, shellfish and more. The "national" soup is caldo verde, made with vegetables and potatoes and served with a typical Portuguese chorizo. Another sought-after soup is açorda alentejana, made with garlic, cilantro, oil, bread and poached egg.
A soup so succulent and robust that it makes for a main dish is the so-called sopa de pedra, which combines meats and potatoes with the broth from the sopa de cação (dogfish soup). Another specialty from the Alentejo region, it's served with pieces of dogfish in the broth and accompanied by a piece of bread.
The Portuguese Shall Not Live by Fish Alone
Despite being known mostly for its varied and delicious fish, in Portugal people also eat meat. Beef, chicken, lamb and pork are found in many preparations, and the variety and flavor of pork products are worth mentioning. Chouriço, for example, is included in many recipes, as well as morcelas (blood sausages). In this country, all parts of the pig are used, from the ears to the brains, hoofs and entrails—everything is usable, everything is delicious.
Beef, on the other hand, is also served, especially as a typical churrasco, although it's also stewed and grilled.
Portuguese breads also deserve their own place at this table, with their crunchy, glorious crusts that protect an aromatic, robust interior. But such a distinguished food is worthy of its own story.
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