Spectacular Bogotá

An enchanting and marvelous city that allows visitors to fully understand it, as long as they take the time to appreciate it. An urban center infused with international and Pan-Colombian flair, where you can do a million things and have a great time while at it. That's how cachacos or Bogotá natives describe their city; a modern metropolis that's home to more than 8 million people, nestled in the plateau of the same name, at 8,530 feet above sea level and with an average temperature of 57 F.

For those of us who enjoy the sight of Monserrate hill timidly peeking through the fog, the scent of wet asphalt and the verdant foliage, Bogotá's rain and cold weather are the perfect excuse to spend entire afternoons strolling through its streets or sharing warm conversations while drinking tinto (coffee) in one of the many Juan Valdéz stores scattered throughout the city.

As Panamanian author Carlos Winter mused after participating in the Bogotá 39 writer's convention held in 2007, "Bogotá is a city that hides another city like an unending set of matryoshka nesting dolls (…), as complex as human beings." Such complexity would force me to devote many pages of this magazine to cover everything that the city has to offer. That's why on my most recent visit to the marvelous Santa Fe de Bogotá I chose to focus on some areas that have always had a special appeal, yet only recently have begun to resurface thanks to their alluring cultural, gastronomic, shopping and nightlife options. After strolling through La Candelaria, enjoying the beautiful views from Monserrate, paying a visit to Museo del Oro, Museo Botero and Plaza de Bolívar, I headed north toward Zona M, Zona G, Zona T, Parque de la 93 and Usaquén in order to discover treasures fit for all tastes and budgets.

Zona M and Leo Cocina y Cava
We begin our trek in Zona M or Macarena, located on the eastern portion of downtown Bogotá, very close to the Andes, the Centro Internacional, La Santamaría bullring, the Museo Nacional and the Planetario Distrital. There you will find Leo Cocina y Cava, a very special restaurant that, according to its founder and chef Leonor Espinosa, "respects Colombia's culinary traditions and recreates ingredients of the country's subcultures, mixing them with ancestral methods and products in order to obtain a culinary technique that boasts a style of its own."

Leo Cocina y Cava is an unparalleled experience however you slice it: the modern décor featuring warm tones of red and pink, the ever-present scent of cinnamon and the menu, flavors and plating; it all comes together to offer you an all-around satisfactory experience. And then there are the conversations with Leo. This economist, marketing specialist, artist, chef and native of Cartagena breathes Colombian identity and passion for her work, and spending just one afternoon with her and her team provides the best lecture on Colombian geography, history, anthropology and cuisine in a superb setting. "This all began about 12 or 14 years ago," says Leo, as she explains her passion for Colombian cuisine while we sample delicious carimañolas (cassava croquettes) stuffed with smoked rabbit and paired with tucupí sauce and suero costeño (cream), and tostones (plantain fritters) with chontaduro (the fruit of a native palm) sauce. "I've spent 7 years researching Colombia's culinary traditions, heritage and the products that can be developed. I currently manage a foundation and I work with different communities to teach them how to recover their culinary heritage and make the most of their resources so they can improve their eating habits."

Leo, who multitasks by tending to her restaurant, her foundation and recording content for elgourmet.com channel, is one of the pioneers of Zona M, an area that some time ago was not considered very safe but has since experienced a renaissance and is now brimming with art galleries, restaurants and bars. leonorespinosa.com; Calle 27 B No. 6-75; Tel: 286-7091/281-6267.

Straight From the Heart in Andrés D.C.
As we continue our northbound voyage, we come across one of Bogotá's most popular nightlife hot spots. Andrés D.C. is the urban equivalent of Chía's famed Andrés Carne de Res restaurant, and it's located in the middle of the Zona Rosa, very close to Zona T. Hearts are omnipresent in Andrés D.C.: according to Angélica Sierra, the versatile researcher of the restaurant's language ministry (yes, that's her official title), the restaurant's initials stand for "de corazón" (from the heart), in recognition of the employees' hard work and enthusiasm. Other heart motifs dot the establishment's décor: vibrant red tones, hearts hovering over the tables and an immense statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus that hangs from the ceiling.

Much like its pioneering counterpart in Chía, Andrés D.C. is one of a kind. It has four levels: Hell, Earth, Purgatory and Heaven, a nod to Dante's Divine Comedy, but the sizzling party atmosphere is palpable throughout the place and service is equally flawless in any of the levels. The menu is printed on newsprint and it's a collectible. Its 32 pages, containing more than 800 food and drink options, feature wonderful pictures and text. The food is outstanding: it includes all sorts of arepas (corn cakes), empanadas and beef as well as Bogotá's traditional ajiaco santafereño (chicken, herb and potato soup served with capers, corn on the cob, cream and avocado), while the music and ambience provide loads of fun. andrescarnederes.com; Calle 82 No. 12-21; Tel: (571) 863-7880

Criterión: In a League of its Own
Zona G (G is for gourmet), located between the 5th and 7th carreras and 74th and 69th streets, houses excellent restaurants of all types. Criterión, hailed by several local and international publications as one of Bogotá's best restaurants and winner of various awards, is one of the area's leading eateries. Criterión serves modern French cuisine, which, according to chef and co-owner Mark Rausch, is classic French cuisine adapted to the tastes of the present decade. Mark specializes in pastries and his brother Jorge is the executive chef. Mark suggests that visitors try the tasting menu, which draws samples from seven entrées and, according to the chef, is the best way to fully experience the restaurant. He also recommends pairing the entrées with New World or French wines.

The other members of the Criterión family are Rausch Patissier and Rausch Atelier. In the former, visitors can sample high quality products inspired by French patisserie in a setting fit for onces (mid-afternoon snacks). Rausch Atelier offers classes to executives, housewives or anyone who's interested in cooking and wants to improve their culinary techniques and try out new ingredients. Rausch Pattisier just opened a new branch at Eldorado International Airport's international terminal criterion.com.co; Calle 69A No. 5-75; Tel: (571) 310-1377

Man Does Not Live by Bread Alone
Bogotá's art, design and cultural offerings are also plenty and of high quality. Carlos Hurtado, director of Nueveochenta Art Gallery, claims that Bogotá has it all: "Many curators from abroad tour Latin American museums and when they arrive in Colombia they're pleasantly surprised, not because they have low expectations, but because they have no expectations. Our artists are just as good or even better than their international peers."

Nueveochenta's goal is to fulfill the basic role of an art gallery by supporting artists, providing them with the proper tools to make the most of their exhibitions and assisting them with their artistic development.

The gallery has worked from the beginning with eight artists, because according to Hurtado, "it's the most we can handle while offering them our full support and thorough attention." Nueveochenta also has a research center that's open to the public and contains publications about Latin American contemporary art. To find out more about the gallery's artists and displays, visit nueveochenta.com; Calle 70 # 9-80; Tel: (571) 346-6987 / (571) 347-6071

Further north, Parque de la 93 is another one of the city's most visited areas. Visitors can stroll around the area or relax on the grass and read a book, or stop by one of the various restaurants, bars, hotels and stores that flank the park. Centro de Diseño Portobelo sits on the north side of the park, a modern building with 24 exhibition halls that showcases the work of prestigious interior designers and a spacious ballroom on the building's upper story that's available for conferences and offers a stunning view of the park. centrodedisenoportobelo.com; Calle 93B No. 11A-84; Tel: (571) 635-5268

Bogotá's magic is palpable on every corner. In the words of Peruvian author Santiago Roncagliolo, who also participated in Bogotá 39: "It's impossible to get bored in Bogotá (…) because Bogotá is every city that you love and also, I guess, some that you don't."

Where to Stay

Location, amenities and excellent service are must-haves for any accommodations—and Bogotá has two new hotels that meet (and exceed) expectations. Located in Salitre, the city's new business center, the Bogotá Marriott Hotel, which opened last year, is near stores, banks and entertainment, and also just 10 minutes from Eldorado airport. Each of the 239 tastefully decorated guest rooms features a minibar, safe-deposit box, wireless Internet, desk with ergonomic chair, voice mail, audio and video docking station for iPod and many other amenities. The hotel also has seven meeting rooms and a ballroom for conferences and social events. There are also two fantastic dining options: Restaurante Pimento, serving Italian cuisine; and Tanoshi Lounge & Sushi Bar, featuring sushi, tapas, cocktails and a fabulous terrace. (Avenida El Dorado, 69B-53, Salitre, Bogotá; (571) 485-1111; marriott.com/bogmc)

Strategically located in Zona G, right in Bogotá's financial area, the recently opened JW Marriott Hotel Bogotá offers comfort and luxury in a modern environment. Its 264 comfortable guest rooms feature a 37" LCD TV, Real Hotels and Resorts bed with 100 percent cotton linens and feather pillows, and separate shower and tub, as well as DVD with connector for iPod and MP3 player, three phones (one of them wireless), voice mail, desk, wireless Internet and more. The hotel also has eight meeting rooms, health club with separate sauna for men and women, six rooms for massages and spa treatments, pool and Jacuzzi. Hungry after so much activity? Enjoy three dining options: Restaurante Tres Tiempos, featuring traditional French cuisine; Bar Dry 73-Factory Steak & Lobster for fantastic steaks; and Lobby Lounge & Bar, where you can relax with a nice cocktail in the welcoming interior or the exterior terrace with reflecting pool. (Calle 73 No. 8-60, Bogotá; (571) 480-0888; marriott.com/bogjw)

TACA flies directly to Bogotá from Lima and San Jose.

For more information on how to book your next trip on TACA, please visit www.taca.com or locate a TACA Call Center, here.