Porto Alegre, Past and present story in the July 2010 Issue of Explore TACA

Porto Alegre, Past and present

By Sofía Carrasquel

Brazil is so much more than the girls from Ipanema, tasty caipirinhas and the sylvan exuberance of the Amazon. In Southern Brazil—at the geographic center of the Southern Cone, with huge prairies that also reach into Argentina and Uruguay—the megalopolis of Porto Alegre shows off an economic, cultural and ecologic vitality that makes it one of the continent’s most fascinating cities.

Located on the shores of Guaíba Lake, Porto Alegre makes the most of its relationship with this enormous body of water. Along the shores, there are pleasant streets and parks, as well as cafés and restaurants of all kinds where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the sunsets.

The so-called Gaucho Capital offers visitors a variety of experiences to discover a Brazil that’s far from the cliché of bronzed bodies swinging to the beat of a samba. Founded in 1772 by immigrants from the Azores, this region gave birth to the gaucho—a figure characterized by his fighting, warring spirit and his devotion to the land, shaped during the border battles between the Portuguese and the Spanish when the continent was being developed. Throughout the following years, the city welcomed immigrants from around the world, especially Germans, Italians, Poles and Lebanese. That gaucho spirit and its rich customs are alive and well in a city that features a unique harmony between modernity and tradition.

Environment, Culture and… Ronaldinho
It’s said that Porto Alegre was the cradle of Brazil’s first environmental movement back in the 1970s. Local residents are proud to have one of the most enviable environmental statistics in the world: there’s one tree per resident. This city that’s literally and symbolically green has almost 1.4 million trees of more than 170 species, and a fascinating number of parks, plazas and environmental preserves. Its most famous parks are Farroupilha, better known as Redençao; the Botanic Garden, featuring the Museum of Natural Science; and Maurício Sirotsky Sobrinho Park (Parque da Harmonia), with a reproduction of a typical gaucho estancia that shows off the region’s folklore and culture.

Most of the monuments and historic sites are located between Cidade Baixa and Cidade Alta, the lower and upper parts of the city respectively. Standouts include the Public Market, built in 1869, which today hosts restaurants, handicraft stalls and stands selling products for Afro-Brazilian rituals. Another must-see is the City Hall, a neoclassic-style structure built in 1898 that’s well preserved. However, the place Porto Alegre’s residents are proudest of is Usina do Gasômetro, a former thermoelectric station that was built in 1928 on the shores of the Guaíba—which in 1999 was turned into a cultural center that features plays and art exhibits.

The UN has even designated Porto Alegre as the Brazilian city with the best quality of life. Porto Alegre, the capital of the state of Rio Grande do Sul, is also at the forefront in culture and education, as evidenced by its 13 cultural centers, more than 30 theaters and almost 50 museums, not to mention a great number of performing arts venues and art galleries. On the other hand, the multiplicity of its culture is also obvious in its dining and nightlife options: there are more than 3,500 restaurants, with influences and flavors from all corners of the planet. The locals say that in their city, you eat well and pay little. The major culinary attraction is churrasco, the main dish of gaucho cuisine: It consists of different cuts of grilled beef served in generous portions.

Perhaps what’s made Porto Alegre the birthplace of important Brazilian public figures who’ve become famous internationally is the city’s wondrous environment, where nature, culture and a healthy lifestyle go hand in hand. In the country where soccer is king, this is where prodigiously talented players like Ronaldinho, Falcão, Dunga and Felipão, among others, came from.

Gauchos, Chimirrão and Milongas
In this region of vast pampas and fertile valleys, gaucho hospitality is legendary. A group that deeply identifies with its roots, the gauchos have preserved their most treasured customs and beliefs, which are reflected in their music, literature, dance and cuisine. Porto Alegre has close to 50 Centers of Gaucho Traditions, places where that dynamic cultural universe is evident and where you can savor chimirrão (mate), an infusion typical of the region, whose preparation and consumption is a ritual. Like in Argentina and Uruguay, this drink is prepared with mate herb, served in a cuia (gourd) and sipped through a bomba, a straw generally made of silver. Genuinely native, this beverage is offered by the gauchos to their guests as a sign of hospitality. The Centers of Gaucho Traditions are also the places to admire the dances and musical rhythms of the gauchos, like venerão, chamamé, milonga and chimarrita. The churrascarias are the places to taste authentic gaucho grilled dishes and also admire the shows typical of this fascinating culture.

Live the Experience of Bento Gonçalves
Located in the Serra Gaúcha, 68 miles from Porto Alegre, is Bento Gonçalves, the cradle of Brazil’s first vineyards. Generation upon generation has grown grapes on its fertile lands, well suited for planting vines. Therefore, the history of its inhabitants—most of them of Italian descent—has revolved around grapes and wine. Upon arrival in the city, the link between the winemaking tradition and its residents is obvious, as an imposing 56-foot wine barrel-like structure welcomes visitors. The cultural identity of the descendants of the first colonizers is reflected in the city’s unique architecture, characterized by stone buildings from the 19th century—and above all, its dozens of vineyards, which also offer great lodging options in this region known for its rural tourism.

In the hills and vineyards, the contrast between old and modern, the simple beauty of nature and the pleasant climate provide a magical charm that makes a trip to Bento Gonçalves marvelous because of the secular tradition of the Vale dos Vinhedos.

TACA flies directly to Porto Alegre from Lima.

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